GS and I woke up at The Bergamot http://theorangeryretreat.com and decided we’d start the day with a ten minute mooch around the ancient hamlet. But first we soaked up the very special ambiance which she has created here.
Off we set. As we were only popping out for a sec we didn’t take a hat or water etc.
There were lots of old buildings, views at every corner, twists and turns and all the evidence of long lost souls – the communal washing area, bookshelves now in the air where floors have fallen in. It’s a ghostly place blown through with wind. But it is full of life; May’s wild blooms and birds swooping overhead (and, from the balcony in the room, below us). It’s not deserted, between the ruins, houses are lived in and being renovated. This is Matera, before Bond, before TV crews and tourists.
We walked and walked. It got steeper and steeper going down hill. It got hotter and hotter with no shade. We kept asking where the nearest bar was and following instructions but found no bar. It got even steeper infact the only vehicle coming the other way had caterpillar tracks. (I was tempted to ask for a lift)
In the end when we got to the bottom my knees were jelly and both GS and I were gasping for a coffee and wondering how on earth we were going to get back up in the absence of a ski lift.
Eventually we found a bar, secured the last two cornet and a large coffee. I weakly asked if there was a taxi. The chances of there being a taxi were vanishingly small and we knew it so I was being a bit cheeky.
The barista looked at me as I gave my most beguiling cheesy grin. Someone said something about getting some donkeys, then he called his mate who worked voluntarily at the local commune as a journalist and by the time we had knocked back our coffees he was waiting to transport us to the top of the mountain. What a lifesaver!
Later that afternoon we decided to go to Policoro (in the car). We intended to take the 15 minute direct route but instead found ourselves on another white road in the middle of nowhere crossing ravines and mountains getting completely lost.
Eventually we got to the beach, with a little cross country driving as I sent GS down ‘road’ which he said was a footpath and required driving between trees to leave. We got to the beach just as storm was brewing in the back ground so the beach was atmospheric and empty. Apart from striped snails and equally striped pebbles.
The only place we could find to eat that was onen in the middle of the afternoon was a youngsters holiday camp. GS and I blagged our way in and the dinner lady gave us enormous portions of rice and meatloaf. All the kiddies were gathering for the afternoons activities. GS and I were tempted to sneak in the back but in the end left before we were arrested.
Then we had a lovely dinner with Martine, with delicious pizzas delivered to the door, far too much great local wine, and a crate of nectarines and apricots the size of apples!
Just after dawn we had a downpour. It was beautiful, the sound of rain and bird song and beautiful Rabatana with her ghosts still half asleep.
We had a lovely couple of nights and can’t wait to spend more time exploring Basilicata and meeting more of her lovely people, next time.
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